Topical Vitamin C
Topical vitamin C is used in skin creams due to it's antioxidant profile and it's preventive effects on photoaging.
The problem with using the compound on skin creams is that it must be in the form of L-ascorbic acid, which is unstable and tends to break down rapidly.
However, a stable topical L-ascorbic acid has been shown in studies to stimulate collagen synthesis, provide photoprotection, and has been shown to stay in the skin for up to 72 hours.
Also, research has suggested that the topical form of the antioxidant has UV immunosuppression preventive effects, a reaction that occurs in more than 90% of skin cancer patients.
The compound is not a sunscreen, so typically those following an anti aging regimen use additional creams with high SPF factors to protect from the sunrays.
Of the effects of topical C vitamin, stimulating collagen synthesis is one of the most impressive. C Vitamin is the only antioxidant that has been proven to increase collagen synthesis so far.
From anti aging perspective this is important, because studies show that collagen decreases with aging and that photoaging accelerates the decrease.
The way this works is that L-ascorbic acid serves as a signal, and relays a message to collagen genes to synthesize collagen, and works as a cofactor for two enzymes that participate in the collagen synthesis process.
Topical Vitamin C - Studies
Topical ascorbic acid on photoaged skin. Clinical, topographical and ultrastructural evaluation: double-blind study vs. placebo. Humbert PG, Haftek M, Creidi P, Lapiere C, Nusgens B, Richard A, Schmitt D, Rougier A, Zahouani H. Exp Dermatol. 2003 Jun;12(3):237-44.
Histological evaluation of a topically applied retinol-vitamin C combination. Seite S, Bredoux C, Compan D, Zucchi H, Lombard D, Medaisko C, Fourtanier A. Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 2005 Mar-Apr;18(2):81-7.
Use of topical ascorbic acid and its effects on photodamaged skin topography. Arch Otolaryngol Head Neck Surg. 1999 Oct;125(10):1091-8. Traikovich SS.
Topical activity of ascorbic acid: from in vitro optimization to in vivo efficacy. Raschke T, Koop U, Dusing HJ, Filbry A, Sauermann K, Jaspers S, Wenck H, Wittern KP. Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 2004 Jul-Aug;17(4):200-6.
Double-blind, half-face study comparing topical vitamin C and vehicle for rejuvenation of photodamage. Dermatol Surg. 2002 Mar;28(3):231-6. Fitzpatrick RE, Rostan EF.
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